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Designed for H-4 halogens headlights to get maximum power from your headlights, it is recommended to have the shortest possible distance between the power source and the bulbs. Our headlight harness draws power directly from the battery, through a relay, to the headlights, providing full power to your H4 conversion headlights or halogen sealed beams. It can also be used to relocate headlights to a remote location. This kit includes: Two 40-amp weatherproof relays, two weatherproof relay bases with wiring harness, weatherproof 30-amp fuse (capable of handling up to 150 Watts), mating connectors to factory headlights and harness.
Designed for H-4 halogens headlights to get maximum power from your headlights
Harness draws power directly from the battery, through a relay, to the headlights. . . providing full power to your H4 conversion headlights or halogen sealed beams
Can also be used to relocate headlights to a remote location
Kit includes: Two 40-amp weatherproof relays, two weatherproof relay bases with wiring harness, weatherproof 30-amp fuse (capable of handling up to 150 Watts), mating connectors to factory headlights and harness
Made in United States
Yes, the price is high. You can buy cheaper components and assemble your own. Here are a few of the reasons I like this kit, and some reasons for building your own.This kit uses two Hella relays, which are top notch, and a more expensive choice than the auto-parts variety. Painless has combined the shared wiring between the relays so there's nothing wasted, and you have only power and ground to hook up (besides the lamps themselves.) The hardware packet includes shrinkable lug rings, one 3/8 (I think, don't quote me) and the other was 1/4 or so (for the ground wire.) There are self-tapping screws for mounting, also, visible in the picture.There is PLENTY of wire for a passenger car or truck, but if you need to shorten or lengthen anything it's easy to open up the sleeving and do so.If you hadn't figured it out already, there is no additional splicing to do once you get power and ground. The headlight plugs piggy back to standard plugs. You'll run a new wire across the front of the car somewhere between the headlights, so you'll have to plan the routing.The drawback I found was the size of the pre-attached headlamp connectors was too big to pass through the holes in the body, making me choose between cutting the wires and re-splicing the connectors back on after threading through the factory holes, or running the wires in a more visible location to the lamps. There's really nothing "wrong" with the system because of this, just something to consider if you're thinking of building your own.For building your own system, look online for generic wiring diagrams, and if you can identify the low and high beam wiring for your car. If that's no problem for you, then there are some reasons to build your own that might appeal to you.First, you can choose exactly where the splices occur, and the routing of the wires may end up easier since you're running individual wires instead of loom.Second, you probably do not have to mess with the headlamps themselves at all, since the factory connectors will remain in place because all the wiring change takes place somewhere else. If you have difficult headlight locations, this is a key consideration.Third, Cost. I'm betting you can find the relays cheap enough to beat the price of the kit.In my case, I needed an assembled kit, didn't have the time to mess with wiring, or so I thought. It ended up being very easy to install, and I'm happy. On my old Chevy truck, though, I'm going to build my own and go the cheap route.Best of luck.I would have given it 5 stars but price does need to come down. Otherwise it works great and kept my headlights bright. It also kept my LEDs from flickering.A decent product, but I feel it could be better. Didn't quite seem to live up to the Painless name. The relays are extremely large, they are of high quality and weatherproof, but their size is borderline obtrusive. Secondly, the female connector did not accept my original headlamp harness plug, I tried to file and modify it, even then once it fit the painless connector was too deep to seat and make connections. Next, the headlamp connectors just seem to be a cheap plastic, the terminals are fairly sloppy and seem like they will just melt and burn up like the 38 year old ones I'm bypassing. Lastly the split. Convoluted tubing is trash. Has cheap Chinese product written all over it. It's not a nice split loom like Taylor. It's very thin, if you remove the wires and go to put them back in it folds over itself and collapses. Again, overall a decent product but I'm not sure it lived up to the hype and was fully worth that hefty price tag.Bought this to help solve a headlight flicker on my Jeep. My upgraded bulbs were drawing too much power than the original ones and kept tripping the circuit breaker in the headlamp switch. I got this kit and after installation the 'flicker' had disappeared and my headlamps were brighter since this connects them directly to the battery rather than going through the entire vehicle harness. It also uses larger wire than my stock factory harness which helps with bulb output.One warning, the headlamp connector on my Jeep has wires that came out at 90 degrees to the socket, which this kit doesnt' work with. Painless Wiring's tech support was extremely helpful in figuring out how to resolve the issue, which in my case ended up being to replace the vehicle headlamp connector with one that had straight wiring connections. Either way this was exactly what I needed and a great product!Relatively easy install, takes headlight load off of light switchNo cutting wires of existing system. Just plug in plugs. Attach ground and positive leeds. Bundle the wires and ready to go. Dropped temperature of my headlight switches on my jeep. Was more expensive but less wire cutting involved.would not expect anything less from painless; had the opportunity to purchase cheaper from several other companies, went with painless BECAUSE I TRUST THEM. I am glad I did, this harness I did have to modify a bit to fit my vehicle (only cause the harness is so long, they give you plenty to work with!!!) it is well built with excellent quality parts; WOULD RECOMMENDThis is the easiest and best harness for adding high output headlamps to a classic car. The harness is fused and has individual relays for each circuit. Works Great! A bit overpriced in my opinion, but it is a great harness and easy to install. I recommend this product, and it was $45.00 cheaper on Amazon than at Summit or Jegs!I was looking at LMC truck at the harnesses they sell for my 85 chevy, and I see that they are the putco harnesses, which have terrible reviews. I bought another harness off amazon which is no longer sold and it showed up in a china bag but was better quality than the putco harness but still not great as I found out by taking out the connectors from the plugs which showed very little copper and lots of insulation to make you think it was a different gauge wire then it is. Then I remembered painless sold a harness and after I had gotten one of their add on circuit kits I was sold. I ordered one up at a price that was cheaper than prices in the US at the time. If you are doing this conversion this is the only harness to look at. all weather proof connectors, high quality relays, everything you need for the install. great product bar none.Amazing compared to all the other crisp out there.Thanks painless!!!!